Derby Parties of the Past

When we think about how we celebrate Derby today versus how our grandparents and great grandparents did, it’s drastically different—but no less meaningful. 

Our Aunt Sally tells it best in her book, But Always Fine Bourbon, quoting their Aunt Rip. She writes, “Mother and Daddy would entertain all their friends from the Bluegrass at a big brunch at the house on Derby Day. It was always quite a party.” That party, which became a Louisville tradition over the years, actually started as what the Van Winkles called a “Mint Julep Party”—and it was even featured in the May 24, 1937 issue of Life magazine.

Even back then, Life Goes to a Party recognized that Derby was about more than just a horse race. The article said it “furnished an excellent excuse for many convivial trimmings, which have only a nebulous connection with the event motivating them.” Photographers captured what they called the “pleasant scene of hospitable preparation” in Nana and Pappy’s kitchen, where “trayful after trayful” of silver julep cups were readied for appreciative guests, who lounged in the more formal parts of the house.

Life even shared the family’s Mint Julep recipe, courtesy of the Stitzel-Weller distillery. It insisted on using only 17-year-old Old Fitzgerald or Old Mammoth Cave bourbon: “Put sugar and a bruised mint leaf at the bottom of the silver cup, pack with finely cracked ice to induce proper frosting, then stick in mint sprigs after two ounces of bourbon have been poured.” Except for the fine bourbon, it was a pretty relaxed recipe.

Nana was the quintessential hostess. Her Derby brunch was legendary. William, their longtime house staff, would serve the juleps in frosty silver cups, and the dining room table would be laden with traditional Kentucky fare: scrambled eggs, buttered grits, and beaten biscuits with country ham. Everyone came—close friends, business acquaintances, out-of-towners. It was an event.

One of my favorite stories, also shared in the book, took place the year after the Life article. Rip remembers, “Mother would get up really early and go into the garden barefoot in her kimono to cut flowers.” That year, their neighbors rented their house to a family from Kansas City—the Woolfs—whose horse was running in the Derby. Nana found a four-leaf clover in the yard and had William deliver it across the street on a silver tray with mint juleps and a note that read, “Put this under your horse’s saddle this afternoon and you’ll win the Derby.”

The year was 1938. The horse was Lawrin, the jockey was a young Eddie Arcaro, and the experts said they didn’t have a shot. But Mr. Woolf took the note seriously—and sure enough, Lawrin won, paying $19.20 on a $2 bet. The next day, Herbert Woolf walked across the street and gave the big red Derby rose garland to Nana—who Earl Wilson of The New York Times affectionately called “Mrs. Pappy Van Winkle” in his write-up.

These days, Derby Day rarely revolves around Churchill Downs. It’s become about gathering with friends who aren’t heading to the track, enjoying the weather (if we’re lucky), and setting up a comfy spot outside with a TV to catch the action. Derby Day is our chance to slow down, skip the hustle, and savor the nostalgic day. Our gatherings are casual, cozy, and a lot more informal and laid-back. But the heart of it is the same. We try to carry on their spirit of hospitality—making sure everyone feels welcome and at home. We still use their old menus for inspiration, and yes, we do break out the silver julep cups.